Tattooing Rabbits
Rabbits are often tattooed for identification purposes. They need a permanent ID tattoo in their left ear to be shown at an American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA) show. The right ear is reserved for a registration number if you choose to register the rabbit. Purebred rabbits can be registered by a registrar at any ARBA show as long as it fits the breed description. All of our rabbits come with an identifying tattoo in their left ear.
|
We tattoo our kits with a clamp in the left ear around 6-8 weeks old. You can also use a tattoo pen to write the ID numbers in the ear. I prefer the clamp because it is fast, easy-to-read, and always looks professional. We recommend the Complete Small Animal Tattoo Kit from Amazon. It comes with pliers, black tattoo ink, a brush, numbers 0-9 & alphabet set.
If you don't own a tattoo set, we can tattoo your rabbits here for a small fee. Visit our Services page for more info. |
You will need:
- Tattoo clamp (Like this)
- Number & alphabet pins
- Tattoo ink (we prefer black)
- Rubbing alcohol
- Cotton ball
- Paper towel
- Q-tip
- Small flashlight
- Towel
- Antibiotic ointment (such as Neosporin)
- An assistant (to hold rabbit)
How to Tattoo with a Clamp
Step 1: Make sure you have everything ready before you begin. A second person to hold the rabbit makes it easier. Sterilize your tattoo pins with rubbing alcohol. Set the numbers/letters in the clamp and test on an index card. Swaddle the rabbit securely in a towel. We lightly cover the kits' face to keep it calm.
|
Step 2: Clean the left ear with a cotton ball soaked in rubbing alcohol. Dry with a paper towel while applying pressure to help desensitize the ear. Use a flashlight to locate the 2 main veins in the ear & position the clamp between them. Have someone hold the rabbit then clamp hard. It's OK if the pins go through the ear.
|
Step 3: Remove clamp and use a Q-tip to rub ink into the holes until you can see the tattoo clearly. If there is blood on the back if the ear, add a dab of antibiotic ointment. Do not apply ointment inside the ear or it may ruin the tattoo. Leave the ink in the ear and return rabbit to it's cage. Set new numbers in the clamp before tattooing the next rabbit!
|
Step 4: The kits usually go back to playing in their cage as if nothing happened. They will clean the excess ink out of each others ears while grooming. Don't worry, the ink is non-toxic. Check ear for the first few days to make sure the tattoo heals fine. If you notice redness, apply antibiotic ointment. A good tattoo will stay clear & legible for the lifetime of the rabbit.
|
Tattoo Number System
There are many numbering systems you can use. A simple method is to use your rabbitry prefix and count up (for Brick House Acres, we could tattoo kits BHA1, BHA2, BHA3...). Some breeders use odd numbers for bucks and even numbers for does. Show rabbits cannot have symbols in their ears or they will be disqualified. The ID must be made up of numbers or letters. Whatever system you use, be sure to keep good records and store them in a safe place. You can print a free Rabbitry Records Binder from our website to keep track of breedings, litters, weights, etc.
This is the system we use:
Does are given a names that start with the letters of the alphabet. The first doe we bought was given an 'A' name, the second a 'B' name, and so on. Buck names start with any letter as long as we haven't used it for another buck. For example, We have 'Hans' & 'Luc' instead of 'Hans' & 'Harry'. Click to see our alphabetized Rabbit Name List.
Litters are tattooed with the first letter of the sire & dams name followed by a number.
For example:
'Hans' (buck) is bred to 'Ardenne' (doe). They have a litter of 8 kits. ID numbers for the kits are HA1, HA2, HA3, HA4, HA5, HA6, HA7, and HA8 in order of weight at weaning (heaviest to lightest). If we bred 'Hans' and 'Ardenne' again their next litter would be HA9, HA10, etc.
We chose this method so we can tell how closely related two rabbits are by their tattoo: HA3 should not be bred with HA15 because they are siblings; HA3 and HD5 are half-siblings; HA3 and LB4 would probably make a good breeding pair. Also, by tattooing in order of weight, we know that HA1 was the biggest kit at weaning. For fast-growing litters, HA1 is probably a better choice for a herd buck than HA8 who was the smallest at weaning.
If you only have one set of number pins, just skip double numbers like 11, 22, 33, etc (or purchase additional digits here).
This is the system we use:
Does are given a names that start with the letters of the alphabet. The first doe we bought was given an 'A' name, the second a 'B' name, and so on. Buck names start with any letter as long as we haven't used it for another buck. For example, We have 'Hans' & 'Luc' instead of 'Hans' & 'Harry'. Click to see our alphabetized Rabbit Name List.
Litters are tattooed with the first letter of the sire & dams name followed by a number.
For example:
'Hans' (buck) is bred to 'Ardenne' (doe). They have a litter of 8 kits. ID numbers for the kits are HA1, HA2, HA3, HA4, HA5, HA6, HA7, and HA8 in order of weight at weaning (heaviest to lightest). If we bred 'Hans' and 'Ardenne' again their next litter would be HA9, HA10, etc.
We chose this method so we can tell how closely related two rabbits are by their tattoo: HA3 should not be bred with HA15 because they are siblings; HA3 and HD5 are half-siblings; HA3 and LB4 would probably make a good breeding pair. Also, by tattooing in order of weight, we know that HA1 was the biggest kit at weaning. For fast-growing litters, HA1 is probably a better choice for a herd buck than HA8 who was the smallest at weaning.
If you only have one set of number pins, just skip double numbers like 11, 22, 33, etc (or purchase additional digits here).
As an Amazon affiliate, we may earn a small commission on products purchased through the links on this page. We appreciate your support.
Brick House Acres Rabbitry - Frankfort, NY 13340 - (315) 338-4638