Rabbit Nest Box Info

There are many types of rabbit nest boxes out there. People use everything from plastic bins to wire drop-down boxes built into the cage. We have tried a few with varied results and have settled on this design. These boxes work great for small to large rabbits (5-12 lbs). We've used them for Holland Lops, Polish, New Zealands, and Champagnes with great success.

The front of the nest box must be at least 6" high to prevent nursing kits from being dragged onto the wire. The box should also be heavy enough that does can't move or tip it. The top platform keeps the babies from being trampled when mom enters the nest. It also gives mom a place to escape from pesky kits when they begin to venture from the nest.

View our complete post about breeding meat rabbits here: Breeding Meat Rabbits: From Pairing to Fryers

Wood Nest Box Plans

This large rabbit nest box measures 10"H x 11"W x 20"L. It's made of 1/2" plywood and comfortably accommodates up to 10 kits. This box fits through the standard 12"x12" door opening on most cages. For giant breeds, make the nest box 12" wide.

Directions: Cut pieces from plywood or boards. Drill three 1/2" holes for ventilation in each side. Assemble the box frame using glue and pin nails, then attach the top. Staple 1/2" hardware cloth, screen, or welded wire to the bottom.

On day 28, place the box in the does cage away from her potty corner so she won't be tempted to use it as a litter box.

Nest Box Tips

Line the nest box with a piece of cardboard cut to fit. Add a resting mat, 2-3" of pine shavings, and some straw or hay. Place the nest in the cage on day 28. Give mom a big handful of hay. With any luck, she will munch for a bit, then start gathering a big "haystache" to build her nest.

This is beautiful nest was built by 'Esperanza', our champion nest builder. Not every doe will build such a nice nest, but this is the ideal to aim for. Some does may need a little help arranging a depression in the back for the kits to roll into as they are delivered.

Does sometimes start pulling fur 1-2 days before delivery. Kits arrive 30-32 days after breeding, usually on day 31. Good moms will deliver their kits in the box and cover them with fur to keep them warm. If kits are born on the wire, warm them up before placing them in the fur-lined nest box.

Once doe has kindled, give her a treat (apple slice/carrot) and remove the nest box for cleaning and inspection. Make sure your hands are clean and free of any strong smelling lotion or perfume. Remove bloody bedding, dead kits, and placentas. Count the babies and make sure they are warm. Make a depression in the back of the box (under the shelf). Fill it with clean fur and nestle the kits inside. Return the box to the cage.

Check kits daily for the first week. Put your hand in the fur. The kits should feel warm, plump, and active. If they are cold, warm them up. If they are thin and wrinkly you may need to foster them out or hold mom and allow them to nurse. If mom pees in the nest, carefully remove the kits and clean fur. Empty the contents and replace with clean bedding and fur. Nestle kits in the middle of the box to discourage mom from hanging out in there.

At 2 weeks, the kits move to the top of the fur instead of staying covered. Check to see that their eyes are open. If any are still closed, hold a warm wet cotton ball on the eye until it opens. If there is any sign of infection, add a dab of terramycin ointment or eye drops. Clean the nest. Place kits in a towel lined crate. Remove all bedding and fur from the box. Fill with clean hay. Replace kits.

Our cages are 24" deep. We place a brick or block of wood between the front of the box and the cage to make a step so the kits can get back into the box if they hop out. The brick also helps keep the nest box in place.

Kits usually start venturing out of the box around 2 1/2 weeks. Be sure to remove the box when the kits are 3 weeks old. Leaving the box in too long results in eye infections and unsanitary conditions.

Clean & sanitize the box after each litter. Remove all bits of hay/shavings. If the box is very dirty, spray the box down with a hose and scrub. Otherwise, mist with vanodine or a 10% mild bleach solution to kill germs and dry in the sun.

Read more about breeding meat rabbits here: Breeding Meat Rabbits: From Pairing to Fryers

Brick House Acres Rabbitry - Frankfort, NY 13340 - (315) 338-4638